When someone mentions the Blues, I am instantly transported back in time to a hot, humid Mississippi Delta night in a remote location filled with soulful crooning and dancing. Songs which painted a picture of the heart, soul, and emotions of a people with that familiar, unmistakable rhythm. While the subject of the song varied, the feeling was clearly conveyed to the listener.
The Blues has long been a favorite genre of mine. I love listening to the old, simple recordings with the crackling of the record and repetitive lyrics. Singers and musicians with distinctive sounds that set them apart from others. So what better way is there to really know about the history of the Blues than to be in the places where it all started? Welcome to Mississippi, Birthplace of the Blues.
Not too long ago, I had the opportunity to spend a weekend traveling the Mississippi Blues Trail from near Port Gibson to Clarksdale, where the infamous Crossroads reside. It was a trip our family threw together at the last minute, but one of the best road trips to date. It should be noted that the Mississippi Blues Trail markers can be found all throughout the state as well as on the Mississippi Coast, but our focus was a stretch of about 174 miles.
We started with a side stop worth mentioning to the virtual ghost town of Rodney. It isn't a stop on the Blues Trail, but it is just southwest of Port Gibson and worth a look. Rodney was a bustling river town through most of the 19th century and was only a few votes from becoming the capital of the Mississippi Territory at one time. Unfortunately, later in that century, the Mississippi River changed its course and Rodney was left without a port. They were bypassed by the railroad as well.
To make things even worse, the town had suffered great loss during a yellow fever epidemic mid-century and fires which wiped out many structures. The remaining population eventually left seeking better opportunities elsewhere. Visiting the town and its few remaining buildings is a sobering reminder that change can happen very quickly.
Highway 61, or the Blues Highway, literally stretches from one end of the state to the other on the west side. Blues musicians and singers once traveled its length sharing their songs with anyone who would listen, especially from Natchez northward.
Speaking of Natchez, they have their fair share of Blues history. Here, the site of the deadly Rhythm Club fire in April of 1940 near downtown is the place where, tragically, over 200 people lost their lives. Be watching for our blog post on Natchez coming soon!
Moving northward along Highway 61, we passed through Port Gibson, where there are Trail markers for Lil Green and Rabbit Foot Minstrels, before making our way to Vicksburg. Vicksburg has various markers throughout the downtown area, but this stop also has other historical significance.
While there, we visited the Museum of Coca-Cola History, as Vicksburg is the location of the first bottling of the product in 1894 at Biedenharn Candy Company. We also made time for the rich history of the McRaven House and, of course, the Vicksburg National Military Park. No trip to Vicksburg would be complete without a stop to the battlefield.
Our trip continued on north to the lesser known town of Leland. When our family takes a road trip, we scour the internet for museums and historical spots that you don't traditionally hear people speak of very often. Leland did not disappoint.
Mississippi may be the birthplace of the Blues, but Leland is the birthplace of the most famous frog to have ever entertained us, Kermit. His creator, Jim Henson, spent most of his childhood in the town and we are forever grateful for the legacy he has left for generations of children and adults around the world. Of course we visited The Birthplace of the Frog and Jim Henson Exhibit. How could we not?
While there, we also visited the Highway 61 Blues Museum in downtown Leland. This was a true hidden gem. It had memorabilia of the local Blues scene from the past. Had we not taken this little trip, I may have never even known this museum existed. Scattered downtown close to the museum are additional markers for the Blues Trail, with some marking the spots of popular clubs in times past.
From Leland, we made our way to Cleveland. Just outside of town you will find historic Dockery Farms founded in 1895 by Will Dockery. Some of the best known Blues artists of the early days, such as Charley Patton, were employed workers on the farm. It is believed that this is the place where the Blues first began in Mississippi. Many of the original buildings are still intact though the farm is no longer functioning.
GRAMMY Museum Mississippi was our second destination in Cleveland. The museum is a technological experience through the history of music in the United States. The museum was built in Cleveland because of the direct influence that Mississippi has had in American music, especially the Delta region.
Our final stop on our road trip was the Crossroads of the Delta Blues, Clarksdale, MS. Just walking through the streets of downtown, I felt the history thick in the air, from the murals that were painted on sides of buildings to the music itself that we enjoyed at Ground Zero Blues Club. We sat for hours just enjoying an open jam session that anyone could participate in, amateur or expert. The food was delicious, too!
Across the street, we visited the Delta Blues Museum with exhibits honoring legends such as Robert Johnson, Muddy Waters, and many more. At every turn on the streets, there seemed to be Trail markers displaying names of the greats and even some I had never heard of until then. It was a stop that I hope to make again to explore more of the rich Blues history of the city.
We took this quick trip over a weekend, only spending two nights in hotels. It was a busy trip, but so enjoyable. Many people aren't interested in historical markers and never take the opportunity to learn of the history they display. I can assure you, this is one trail that the markers are worth stopping for as well as the actual locations themselves. Not only will you leave with the feeling you were submersed in the Blues, but you will find other stops of historical significance on the route. So, welcome to Mississippi! May the Blues fill your soul and the Delta catfish fill your belly!
Stephenie
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